Battlefield Snare Makeover
This is the final product:
turned a stainless steel Battlefield snare drum into a 100% maple shell drum, custom stained and finished.
Put a new Skyntone batter head on it. It looks like an old calf head. Sounds good: versatile, medium weight.
This is what it originally looked like. Very tinny sounding and 6 1/2" deep.
Remove all the parts and put them in bags. They have a tendency to run away...like that other sock ;-)
You can see it's drum #931 dated 9-8-14 and signed by the employee at Battlefield Drum. Also it's inscribed with James 5:16.
This is a Keller 100% maple shell. I bought it with the bearing edges and snare beds already cut.
Only thing to do is give it a fine sanding, drill, and finish.
I've sanded the shell and removed all the dust.
I've taped (painter's tape) up to the line I drew.
I've also made this jig to make it easier to apply the stain and finish.
I've done about 3 coats of stain. I switched stains after the first coat as it was too red for my taste.
(Stains are not an exact science.)
Go with light coats, wiping off excess. Wait 'til it's dry before applying another coat.
Now you see why the line and the tape: it gives us a nice professional detail.
One of many coats of polyeurethane.
I apply this with a wide foam brush and discard after each coat.
Again, light coats being sure it's 100% dry between coats.
I used the original shell as a template for drilling the new shell.
The steel shell was 6 1/2" deep and the maple was only 6" but everything still worked fine.
Here I have exact hole placements on a centerline for drilling the lug holes.
Blue painter's tape protects the finish and gives you something to write on.
I used a punch to give my drill a precise start.
I drilled all the holes with a protable drill, not a drill press.
I drilled from the outside of the shell, in.
Surprisingly I found that drilling each hole once with the exact sized bit was cleaning than first drilling with a smaller bit.
Oh, and nothing scarier than drilling a perfectly finished shell! ;-)